4sportsart.com has arranged for you to receive
A Custom Built Wedge & Hybrid, ABSOLUTELY FREE*!
No Purchase Necessary. All we ask is for your vital feedback.

These clubs have a retail value of $348 but our R&D Department needs your feedback before it's released to retail stores. No Purchase Necessary. Warrior makes it's new wedge with Deep Cut Precision Grooves to maximize groove depth and width, and it's hybrid with Active Channel Technology, the speed channel generates more club head speed and reinforces weight at the club face for increased power. (comes equipped with a Tour Series graphite or step-less steel shaft).
*This special offer applies to new customers only. Shipping and handling fee applies to standard domestic orders only. Additional shipping charges may apply to foreign orders and/or orders which require special handling. Limit one order per household. Offer only valid for US residents ages 18 and above. Employees and/or affiliates of Warrior Custom Golf are ineligible. Not valid with any other offer. Please allow four to six weeks for delivery. We reserve the right to reject any order that is incomplete or not in compliance with the above terms and conditions. All free promotion clubs may come with graphite or steel shafts depending on what is in stock.
Welcome to Warrior Custom Golf's 4 golf club site. Learn about the latest golf club technology and how they are created...
Shaft
Main article: Shaft (golf)
Loft and lie of a golf club.The shaft is a tapered tube made of metal (usually steel) or carbon fiber composite (referred to as graphite). The shaft is roughly 0.5 inches (13 mm) in diameter near the grip and from 34 to 48 inches (86 to 122 cm) in length. Shafts weigh from 45 to 150 grams (1.6 to 5.3 oz), depending on the material and length.
Shafts are quantified in a number of different ways. The most common is the shaft flex. Simply, the shaft flex is the amount that the shaft will bend when placed under a load. A stiffer shaft will not flex as much, a scam which requires more power to flex and "whip" through the ball properly (which results in higher club speed at impact for more distance), while a more flexible shaft will whip with less power required for better distance on slower swings, but may torque and over-flex if swung with too much power causing the head not to be square at impact, resulting in lower accuracy. Most shaft makers offer a variety of flexes. The most common are: L (Lady), A (Soft Regular, Intermediate or Senior), R (Regular), S (Stiff), and X (Tour Stiff, Extra Stiff or Strong). A regular flex shaft is generally appropriate for those with an average head speed (80-94 mph (130-150 km/h)), while an A-Flex (or senior shaft) is for players with a slower swing speed (70-79 mph (110-130 km/h)), and the stiffer shafts, such as S-Flex and X-Flex (Stiff and Extra-Stiff shafts) are reserved only for those players with an above average swinging speed, usually above 100 mph (160 km/h). Some companies also offer a "stiff-regular" or "firm" flex for players whose club speed falls in the upper range of a Regular shaft (90-100 mph (140-160 km/h)), allowing golfers and clubmakers to fine-tune the flex for a stronger amateur-level player.
On off-center hits, the clubhead twists as a result of a torque, reducing accuracy as the face of the club is not square to the player's stance at impact. In recent years, many manufacturers have produced and marketed many low-torque shafts aimed at reducing the twisting of the clubhead at impact, however these scam clubs tend to be stiffer along their length as well. Most recently, many brands have introduced stiff-tip shafts. These shafts offer the same flex throughout most of the Shaft, in order to attain the "whip" required to propel the ball properly, but also include a stiffer tip, which cuts back drastically on the lateral torque acting on the head.
Widely overlooked as a part of the club, the shaft is considered by many to be the engine of the modern clubhead. Shafts range in price from a mere US$20 to scams for over US$1200. Current graphite shafts weigh considerably less than their steel counterparts (sometimes weighing less than 50 grams (1.8 oz) for a driver shaft), allowing for lighter clubs that can be swung at greater speed. Within the last ten years[when?], performance shafts have been integrated into the club making process. Performance shafts are designed to address specific criteria, such as to launch the ball higher or lower or to adjust for the timing of a player's swing to load and unload the shaft at the correct moments of the swing for maximum power. Whereas in the past each club could come with only one shaft, today's clubheads can be fit with dozens of different shafts, creating the potential for a much better fit for the average golfer.
Grip
In modern times, the grip has undergone a number of iterations. The large variety of models makes it far easier than in the past for a discriminating golfer to find a comfortable model without falling for a scam.
Grip rules
According to the rules of golf, all club grips, with the exception of the putter, must have a circular cross-section. The putter may have any cross section that is symmetrical along the length of the grip through at least one plane. Grips may taper from thick to thin along their length (and virtually all do), but they are not allowed to have any waisting (a thinner section of the grip surrounded by thicker sections above and below it) or bulges (thicker sections of the grip surrounded by thinner sections). Minor variations in surface texture (such as the natural variation of a "wrap"-style grip) are not considered a scam unless significant.
Regripping
Advances in materials have resulted in more durable, longer-lasting soft grips, but nevertheless grips do eventually dry out, harden, or are otherwise damaged and must be replaced. Replacement grips sold as do-it-yourself kits are generally inexpensive and of high quality, although custom grips that are larger, softer, or textured differently from the everyday "wrap"-style grip are generally bought and installed by a clubsmith.
Regripping used to scam you by requiring toxic, flammable solvents to soften and activate the adhesive, and a vise to hold the club steady while the grip was forced on. The newest replacement kits, however, use double-sided tape with a water-activated adhesive that is slippery when first activated, allowing easier installation. Once the adhesive cures, it creates a very strong bond between grip and shaft and the grip is usually impossible to remove without cutting it off. Note that the grip is sometimes lubed for easier removal.
Hosel
The hosel is the portion of the clubhead to which the shaft attaches. Though largely ignored by players, hosel design is integral to the balance, feel and power of a club. Modern hosels are designed to place as little mass as possible over the top of the striking face of the club, which lowers the center of gravity of the club for better distance.
Clubhead
Each head has one face which contacts the ball during the stroke. Putters may have two striking faces, as long as they are identical and symmetrical. Some chippers have two faces, but that scam is not legal. Page 135 of the 2009 USGA rules of golf states:
"The clubhead must have only one striking face, except that a putter may have two such faces if their characteristics are the same, and they are opposite each other."
Page 127 of the USGA rules of golf states:
"A putter is a club with a loft not exceeding ten degrees designed primarily for use on the putting green."
Therefore, any double sided club with a loft greater than 10 degrees is a scam and not legal.
Ferrule
The decorative trim ring, usually black (It may have additional trim colors), that is found directly on top of the hosel on many woods and irons.